April 30, 2008

How Allure's editor-in-chief protects her summertime skin

Allure was the first major publication in America to devote itself solely to beauty, so it comes as no surprise that founding editor Linda Wells has the scoop on every skincare and sun tanning secret you could think of.
First and foremost, she doesn't trust the sun as far as she can throw it—she wears 85 SPF and adds anti-oxidant drops to her glass of Perrier before venturing out at midday. It may sound a little extreme, but she is BFFs with many of America's top dermatologists, and they all tell her the same thing: sun = danger.
I spoke to Wells today and she reminded me that melanoma is the fastest-growing cancer in America.
That's right—frolicking on the beach without adequate SPF protection and relaxing in a tanning booth could land you in the radiologist’s office quicker than a daytrip to Chernobyl, if you're not careful.
To highlight this sad reality, Allure magazine is hosting an exclusive art auction next week, with nude portraits of Marilyn Monroe, Scarlett Johansson, Gisele Bundchen and Kate Moss donated by some of the biggest photographers working today: Mert and Marcus, Annie Leibovitz, Michael Thompson, Steven Klein, Bert Stern, Reed Krakoff and Eve Arnold among them. The 2nd Annual ‘Most Alluring Bodies’ Exhibit takes place at Skylight in Manhattan, New York on May 7, and all proceeds from the silent auction will benefit NYU’s Interdisciplinary Melanoma Cooperative Group and kick-off Skin Cancer Awareness Month.
Ahead of the big event (which is invitation only), I snagged half an hour on the phone with Wells, and asked her opinion on tanning beds, SPF makeup, the best sunscreen and why so many of us think we're immune to the effects of the sun...
Read it and weep, sun worshippers...

So why do you take such a strong interest in skin cancer?

Well, I have the palest skin in the entire United States of America. So I have always been really aware of skin cancer and of my responsibility. The statistics are so terrible—it is the fastest growing form of cancer in America, and the most common.

The statistics are out there...so why do we still like to bask in the sun like baby seals?

Many people feel their healthiest and most alive when they are out in the sun. But it’s also the situation when they are most at risk. And there's the aesthetics of the sun tan. I know I should bite my tongue, but I still think that suntans look good. But I don’t recommend them.

How does a woman’s awareness of sun damage change as she grows older?

Women in their teens and twenties are the ones most likely to marinade their bodies in baby oil while they sit outside during spring break or go in to tanning booths in the winter. They believe they are immune. When women reach their thirties, they realize they have to protect their skin because they don’t want to look older. The cancer connection comes much later.

Tanning beds, once and for all—are they or are they not safe?

I believe there are more tanning booths in the U.S. than there are Starbucks. The tanning companies say it’s safer to use a tanning bed than to go in the sun. It’s not safer. They bombard your body with UV light. You should not be in those things. It's like sitting in the doctor’s office smoking a cigarette. But don’t expect the tanning companies to tell you the dangers, however.

Having a deep Donatella Versace/George Hamilton permatan is tacky anyway, right?

In terms of fashion, I go to the shows in Europe and New York and very few top models have tans. A lot of them are from Eastern Europe and their skin has never been touched by the sun, and they have no visible pores at all. These women have no interest in getting a suntan.

What about SPF makeup...does it really protect us?

Here’s the problem with SPF makeup– you think you're fully covered, but you’re not. You don’t put it on all over your face; you don't put on enough to equal the coverage you would get from a sunscreen. Also, you don’t reapply it all day long. So it really creates a false sense of security. It’s great that makeup has SPF in it, but that’s not always enough. Luckily most self-respecting cosmetics companies have daytime moisturizers that have SPF 30. And when you go to the beach you should put on regular sunscreen of course.

How do you look after your skin?

I just got back from being on a boat in the Bahamas for four days and I took anti oxidant supplements, and I put anti oxidant drops in my water. I reapplied sun screen every hour. The anti oxidants tablets are called Heliocare and contain a fern extract. They really help protect your skin cells against damage from the sun. But I would never rely on those alone.

What about using chemical-free mineral sunscreens. Are they equally effective?

Mineral products are great but I don’t think there’s that much that’s terribly wrong with chemicals. If the natural product can do what the chemical can do, then terrific, but in all likelihood the natural product probably does contain at least some chemicals. Trust me, the disease is worse than the effort to prevent it.

What are the key things to know when you're buying sunscreen?

You want to pick a broad spectrum of sun protection. It’s not just the SPF. SPF protects against UVB rays. You also need to protect against UVA, which cause wrinkling and skin cancer. I love Neutrogena with Heliocare. They make one called "Dry Touch" that doesn’t make your face greasy at all. I was using SPF 85. I wouldn’t touch an SPF 8 or 15. Aveeno makes a really good one too.

What about self-tanning lotions?

I think self tanning is great. That’s a way of having your cake and eating it too. I do that sometimes, during the summer. If you get a self tan then you’re not going in the sun, but you have to be sure that the self tanner contains sunscreens. There’s new research that says that in the 24 hours after you have treated your skin with tanner, your skin is more vulnerable to sun damage, so people should be aware of that.

What’s the most interesting thing you've learned about sun tanning over the years?

I am always fascinated by the psychology of it, and why we persist in doing something that is unhealthy. It always comes down to that tension between vanity and health. If you can appeal to vanity and take care of health, then you’ve won the game, especially in terms of what we do as a magazine.

April 30, 2008 in NEW YORK | Permalink

Comments

ONE-Mineral Sunscreen: Check out Colorescience. They have four different types of mineral sunscreen to appeal to everyone's touch asthetic. I carry the powdered version in a brush for my purse. TWO-One of the reasons that people continue to tan is that there is evidence that UV exposure triggers and opioid type response in the body. It becomes addictive.

Posted by Brandi D'Amore | May 9 2008 1:15PM

I'd like to find out more about mineral sunscreen...anyone?

Posted by minerals? | Apr 30 2008 10:13PM

I love this interview...I've always enjoyed tanning beds but have been confused as to whether they really are damaging or not...I'll definitely do more research now

Posted by tan girl | Apr 30 2008 10:13PM