August 21, 2008

John McCain's style sells him short

Not since President McKinley was elected in 1897 has there been a President in The White House who has stood under 5’8”. McCain, at a munchkin-like 5’7”, has the odds stacked against him, especially when compared to Obama's statuesque 6’3”.
Short men’s designer Jimmy Au, who has created the short collections for Calvin Klein, DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Sean John and Michael Kors and who has dressed little guys like Danny DeVito, Mel Brooks and Variety's very own Peter Bart, runs America’s only short men’s designer store, "Jimmy Au’s for Men 5’8” and Under" in Beverly Hills. Here he provides McCain with some much-needed style pointers, via his spokesman Alan Au. (Pictured is a Jimmy Au charcoal suit)

What is McCain doing wrong?

McCain's stylist is using the incorrect but commonly used adage that bigger shoulders make you look bigger. That may be true for a skinny tall guy, but for shorter men that rule doesn't apply nor does it make sense. Bigger shoulders (over emphasizing the horizontal) will make a shorter man look stocky and shorter. A trimmer, softer shoulder design would be more better for him. Not to mention a trimmer sleeve.

Shoulder pads - yay or nay?

Depends. Shoulder pads serve a functional purpose in the fit. If your shoulders are in the "normal" range, there is no need, in fact it may make it look awkward like you were shrugging your shoulders. If you have muscular or square shoulders, there is also no need. However, if you have sloping shoulders, shoulder pads can help you fill in the shoulder back into the "normal" range of which the coat should be designed. Shoulder pads for the purpose of exaggerating of accentuating the shoulders will only make a shorter man look shorter or smaller because of the disproportion it causes. Think linebacker pads.

How can shorter men elongate their silhouettes?

Wear a suit instead of a sportcoat and dress pants. Wear the trimmest fit within your comfort zone. Be sure your coat is just long enough to cover the bottom of your seat. Wear pants in a short or low rise for a longer leg line. Wear pinstripes to create a longer visual line. Be sure the stripes are not to wide or narrow for your frame. Choose a slimmer tie with a simple pattern. Lastly, and most importantly, have a good tailor adjust your sleeves and hem to the appropriate lengths, and check the width of the jacket and pant legs and adjust for fullness.

What are the biggest mistakes short men make when they are dressing?

Biggest mistake #1 is not having a tailor do the needed alterations to a coat like adjusting the sleeves and waist; on the pants, adjusting the seat and thighs for fullness. Biggest mistake #2 is letting your ego get in the way of buying the right size. Don't buy the number, buy the fit. If you are not a 38 regular, don't buy it. Especially if you don't plan to avoid biggest mistake #1. Altering a 38 regular to make it look like a 38 short will never look as good as a 38 short to begin with. It'll be altered to the point it's not proportional anymore, defeating the purpose of trying to look taller. The best fit and proportional design will always make one look taller. Biggest mistake #3 is choosing a pattern that is too big, too wide, or too loud. Any combination of the three will draw attention to your clothes, not you. While people may see you from a social distance, from afar all they will see is your clothes.

What about hats?

I think hats can be a great thing. It shows another level of personal style. Choosing a flattering, subdued style would be best if it goes with your personality. Anything too proportionately larger, although appropriate or fashionable may be misread as over compensating for something, including your height. True Texans may have an excuse.

Would you encourage McCain to wear platforms, a la "Saturday Night Fever" or The Bee Gees?

Absolutely not, unless it was out of jest or to get the media to talk about him more. It says insecurity. What's he going to do? Break out a 70s leisure suit? Go clubbing? If he wanted some extra height, a dress boot would be more appropriate. It's less conspicuous than a western boot and can be suit appropriate. It would give him anywhere from 1" to 1 1/2" without being very noticeable. It's plain leather uppers can be very chic. I would then put him in a properly fitted navy or charcoal 2 button single breasted pinstripe suit with trimmer sleeves and shoulders. Put on a dominant but slender necktie with a white shirt, and I'd say he'd have a winning combination. He's not using his age or his wife's beauty to his advantage. He needs to dress like an experienced leader, not a grandfather. He can be both, but he's got to dress like the first. If he makes it to the White House, he can grandpa it all he wants.

Jimmy Au has supplied wardrobe for hit shows like "House", "Heroes", "The Office", and movies such as "Oceans 13" and "Rush Hour 3". His celebrity clients include Mark Wahlberg, Chris Rock, Rex Lee, James Kyson Lee, Oscar Nunez, Jason Alexander, Al Pacino, Ed Asner, Danny DeVito, Eddie Izzard, Mel Brooks, Nathan Lane, Martin Sheen, Michael J. Fox and more.

August 21, 2008 in MEN | Permalink

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