February 20, 2008

Why don't we appreciate costume design?

Under-appreciated, unnoticed and oft unsung, costume designers suffer from a chronic (and inexplicable) lack of recognition in the popular media.
It makes no sense—their creations, especially in some period or fantasy productions (think "The Tudors", "Atonement", "Elizabeth", "Edward Scissorhands", "Sweeney Todd"), often convey more emotion, more story, than the most sumptuous of red carpet or catwalk gowns. And yet I can count on one hand the costume designers whose names are known outside film industry circles.
Why?
Is it because costume designers, unlike some red carpet stylists, actually avoid outshining their clients? Is it because costume designers themselves tend to dress (in Amish terms) somewhat plainly? Or is it because their world—the world of early hours, long shoots and budget-juggling—is simply less glamorous than the worlds of fashion design or red carpet?
Who knows.
But last night, the costume makers had their moment. The 10th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards were attended by some of the biggest stars of today—Anjelica Huston (who was Mistress of Ceremonies), Kate Holmes (all grown up now, she's killed off Katie), Geena Davis, Christian Bale, Natasha Henstridge and many more.
Anjelica Huston was decked out in a spangly red creation that would have gone well with Dorothy's ruby slippers. It was made by Bob Mackie and Ray Aghayan, and is being sold to benefit the Clothes Off Our Back charity. Mackie presented the Career Achievement in TV award to the Yoda-like Ray Aghayan, whose life's work is surely the envy of every gay man over 50—he dressed Judy Garland, Barbara Streisand and Diana Ross in many millions of sequins, in a career spanning more than 50 years. (Aghayan and Mackie won the first ever Emmy Award for costume design in 1963.)
Kate Holmes presented United Artists head Paula Wagner with the Swarovski Presidents award, the first time a studio head has won such an honor. "Her impeccable personal style defines how she works," said Kate, whose insufferable Stepford Wife delivery was offset after she mispronounced "epitome", reading it phonetically from the autocue. (It's OK Katie—I mean Kate—I remember saying "paradigm" in all its phonetic glory in front of my English lit class.) Wagner, Tom Cruise's longtime business partner, stepped up to the podium wearing a beautiful floor-length gown, with stiff architectural flourishes and regal in midnight blue. It was stunning, one of my favorite looks of the evening, alongside Lena Heady's (aka TV's new Sarah Connor) mink stole and nude vintage gown.
Brit costume designer Ruth Myers, who came to America upon the urging of Gene Wilder and went on to work on "The Woman in Red", "The Addams Family", "The Accidental Tourist", "Emma", "LA Confidential" and "The Golden Compass", was honored with a Career Achievement Award for film. She also picked up the statuette in the Best Fantasy category, presented by the ever-Amazonian Natasha Henstridge.

Marion Cotillard, looking stunning and about 12 years old, had filmed a touching message in memory of the late Marit Allen (pictured), who was inducted into the Costume Designers Guild Hall of Fame this year. A former UK Vogue staffer and David Bailey model, Allen had costume designed more than 40 productions, including "Eyes Wide Shut", "Little Shop of Horrors", "White Mischief", "Brokeback Mountain", "Love in the Time of Cholera", and "La Vie En Rose". She passed away late last year after suffering a brain aneurism.
Christian Bale refused to follow the autocue, paying tribute to director/producer team James Mangold and Cathy Konrad in his own charmingly ad-libbish way, with several shout-outs to costume designer Arianne Phillips, who has been nominated for an Oscar for her work on "3:10 to Yuma".
Christian Bale, Anjelica Huston, Geena Davis, Kate/Katie Holmes—how much more star power will it take before the masses finally take an interest in the art of costume design?

February 20, 2008 in LOS ANGELES | Permalink

Comments

five15dream@roadrunner.com laura evans 323.578.5944 cell 818.230.7378 I am fortunate to have seen Colleen Atwood's body of work on "Planet of the Apes" at FIDM a few years ago. Each costume is exquistely handcrafted using shells, beads, natural fibers and even hand sculpted leather. Up close, each is a work of wearable art

Posted by All-time favorite costume | Feb 21 2008 11:43AM